This pattern, that I designed, was originally posted on the Ram Wool site, but has since been corrupted to not show photos and charts, so I am now hosting it here on my own site. It is suitable for any lighter weight sock yarns.
By Barbara Giguere
llamalady on Ravelry
The Crocus Sock is a short, Springy sock, with a large percentage of cotton in it, but also some stretch nylon to keep its shape. It is easier to knit than it looks, using twisted stiches to form the mock cabled patterns running up the foot. It is knit from the toe up.
Needle size: US 1 (2.5mm) or size needed to get gauge.
This pattern is written for magic loop or two circs. They can also be done on dpn’s.
Yarn: Lana Grossa Meilenweit Cotton Stretch (purple is the pictured color and one skein will make 3 socks)
41% cotton, 39% superwash wool, 13% nylon, 7% stretch nylon
460m/500yds 100g Machine washable. Lay flat to dry.
Gauge: 8 sts per 1 inch and 12 rows per 1 inch
Size: Medium woman (to increase or decrease size you can add or omit columns of purl stitches in the first chart, and cast on accordingly.) Sock measures 7”, unstretched, around foot. A larger or smaller needle can also be used for small adjustments in size, but it is not recommended to change needle size more than one size either way.
K – knit
P – purl
m1b – make 1 by lifting the bar between two stitches, from the front, with the tip of the left needle, and knitting through the back (will make a twisted stitch and is an increase of one stitch)
m1f – make 1 by lifting the bar between the two stitches, from the back, with the tip of the left needle, and knitting through the front (will make a twisted stitch and is an increase of one stitch)
Kfb – knit through the front, then the back of the same stitch (an increase of one stitch)
Bo – bind off
St(s) – stitch(es)
Cast on 10 sts on each needle, using Judy’s Magic Cast On (see video link at the end, if this is an unfamiliar technique) (20 sts).
Row 1: *K1, kfb, k5, kfb, k 2, repeat from *
(the k1 at the beginning and k2 at the end is not an error, this places that little bar from the kfb in the 3rd stitch position on each side to make it match)
Row 2: K around
Row 3: Increase round: * k1, kfb, k to three stitches from the end of the needle, kfb, k2, repeat from *
Row 4: K around
Continue alternating increase round and knit round until you have 64 stitches on the needles. Knit one round after your last increase round.
Begin working first charted pattern on first 32 stitches for top of sock. Knit the remaining 32 stitches for the sole of the foot.
Repeat rows in blue outlined box as many times as needed until you are ready to begin gusset (about 4” less than total desired foot length).
How to measure for foot length:
You want the gusset stitches to be about 50% of the instep and sole stitches, so in this pattern it will be 32 stitches, 16 added to each side of the sole stitches. Add 1 stitch at each side of sole, followed by a knit even row…so it will be 32 rows to add the needed 32 stitches. For heel cup knit and wrap until you have 4 stitches in the center that are not wrapped. For 64 sts there are 47 rows total for gusset increases and heel cup. 47 rows divided by rows per inch (mine is 12 rows/inch) = (3.92 round to 4) 4 inches.
Take total desired sock length from toe to heel (mine is 9”) and subtract number of inches needed for gusset and heel cup (9 – 4 = 5 inches), so knit sock 5” then begin gusset increases.
At desired foot length, work in pattern across top of foot, and then begin increasing on sole side: k1, m1b, knit to next to last stitch, m1f, K1.
Next row, k across sole
Next row increase,
Continue plain and increase rows until you have 64 stitches on the sole.
Work pattern across instep to sole stitches. K 16 sts on sole, PM, k31, sl 1, bring yarn to front and wrap stitch just slipped, PM, sl same stitch back to left needle. Turn work. ( videos of the wrap and turn technique are also available and linked below).
P to 1 st from marker, sl 1, bring yarn to back and wrap stitch, sl same stitch back to left needle. Turn work.
* K across to 2 sts from wrapped stitch, sl and wrap as before. Turn work. P across to 2 sts from wrapped stitch, sl and wrap as before. Turn work* Repeat between *’s until you have only 4 center sts between last wraps, ending after completing a right side row. Turn work.
Heel Flap (Eye of Partridge Heel):
Wrong side row – purl to 1 stitch before marker, lifting wraps and purling them together with their respective stitches. Slip next stitch, remove marker and replace stitch, P2tog, turn.
Sl1, k to one within one stitch of marker, lifting all knitting wraps with their stitches and knitting those stitches with the lifted wraps through the back of the stitch (they will twist, but it will not be obvious). Slip last stitch as if to knit, remove marker, slip next stitch as if to knit, k those 2 tog through the back loop. Turn
Sl1, p across to 1 stitch before gap, p2 tog to close gap. Turn
Sl 1, *k1, sl 1 , repeat from *across to within one stitch of gap, ssk to close gap, turn
Sl 1, p across to 1 stitch before gap, p2 tog to close gap. Turn
Sl 1, * sl 1, k1 repeat from * across to within one stitch of gap, ssk to close gap, turn
Repeat last 4 rows until you have 32 stitches on this side and you have used up all your gusset stitches.
Now continue around the entire sock, patterning as set up on the front of the leg and knitting across the back. Continue until the leg is 1 1/2” from the top of heel flap (or 1 inch less than desired height)
K one row around,
p one row around,
knit one row.
Switch to cuff chart and repeat each row twice, once for front and once for back.
K one row, P one row, bo knitwise
A video of Judy’s Magic Cast On can be seen on this website http://knitpurlhunter.com/blog/?p=244
Two videos of wrapping and turning stitches and then picking up wrapped stitches are here on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G4GxFvi4KD0
Any questions regarding this pattern can be addressed to me, as Llamalady on Ravelry or emailed to me at firstname.lastname@example.org